Faith and Hope Hit the Streets of Manila

Manila Memories of the Martyr
In my pre-American stage, as a youngster of about seven or eight years of age, I vividly recall the Procession of the Black Nazarene through the streets of Manila. My dad took part in a number of the annual processions. I remember thousands of Filipinos lining the procession route, many intent on trying to touch the icon as it passed.
 
Those who were able to touch the image believed that miracles would occur in their lives. Earlier this January, I watched the procession from a hotel window, not from the streets, and the memories washed over me. Once again I saw the image of Jesus of Nazareth lurching through the tightly crowded, jam-packed streets.
 
The Black Nazarene
In the year of our lord, 1606, a Spanish priest in Mexico had an icon put aboard a Spanish galleon bound for Manila. The statue was a life-sized, carved-wood image of Christ bearing The Cross. En route to the Philippines, a fire broke out on the huge ship and the image was seared by fire and became blackened. Because of its survival it became a totem for miracles. Its name reflects the hometown of Jesus: Nazareth.
 
Since 1787 the icon has been enshrined at Saint John the Baptist Church in Quiapo, a division of Manila. For more than 200 years the church clergy have been putting the revered statue on a gilded carriage which is pulled by penitents in bare feet through the streets of metro Manila. November ninth marks the first novena of the statue being ensconced in its present basilica.

​
 

Questions About the Procession
The procession is a twenty-four-hour-plus event. It starts early on the ninth and rolls over into the next morning. Vehicle traffic is paralysed throughout Manila as literally millions of fervent Catholics from across the nation gather to at least see, if not touch, the holy image. Many of the celebrants are barefoot in acknowledgement of how Christ walked to his earthly death.
 
Life and limb are often at risk as people surge toward the wooden image for a touch. Some throw towels at the stewards on the carriage, hoping they will wipe the image and throw the towel back for at least a second-hand blessing. (The Philippine Red Cross recorded over 600 injuries this year.)
 
As I watch the procession from my hotel room, I couldn't help but wonder what kind of people can show such passion, such devotion. I must remind myself that I too am a Filipino, that these are my people. Then more questions start rolling across my mind. What effect does this ritual have on the lives of the masses? Is this good for the nation? Good for the people? What does this amazing spectacle of humanity-swept-away say about them, about me, about us?

​

---

Answers in the Streets and the Churches of Manila
As I toured the old city and its surrounds in the aftermath of the procession, I still saw extreme poverty. People were still sleeping on cardboard beds in the alleys and other somewhat secure spaces. I still saw many street kids who are homeless. The Philippines has been a “developing” country for ages. Yes, there is a growing middle class, affluence is visible. Despite this economic progress, it is still a country where there is much suffering.
 
The Sunday after the procession, I attended mass and the priest laid out the elements behind the spirit and the devotion of the people. Everyday people identify with the suffering of the Black Nazarene. The wounds, the blood, the crown of thorns, the bare feet, the burden of the heavy cross, all point to a divinity who knows the extremes of human suffering.
 
Since the Black Nazarene knows of this earthly suffering, he provides an answer to a pleading humanity – that they too can ascend to a rich heaven after their bitterly poor, earthly toil. And perhaps they may experience a miracle while they are still here. Many swear that they or loved ones have been cured of disease; others speak of economic progress because of their devotion.
 
Daily Struggles
Often I wonder if Filipinos are used to suffering – that struggle is the only reality for them. A single Filipino mother gets up at 5 a.m. to push a huge cart of vegetables for miles in hopes of earning a measly ten bucks to feed her family. The taxi driver who struggles to stay awake during his 14-hour shift earns twenty dollars at the end of the day and considers himself lucky and blessed by the divine.
 
Despite their grinding lives, the folk seem to have a respect for each other and for the dignity of life in a hostile environment. Every time I visit the Philippines as part of my law practice, I am always in awe of the fact that just about everywhere I look people are stalwart and often thrive. Though they may be selling newspapers in the middle of a dusty street, working menial jobs in fast-food joints, or struggling with unemployment (a heart-wrenching number), the Pinoys are trying to live decent lives. Perhaps it is their faith that serves them so well.

​Faith Doesn't Kill the Will of the People
Some holier-than-thou types have accused the Filipinos of being idol worshippers, fanatics, overly superstitious, and the like. I contend that their faith has had a very positive effect on the lives of the population. It has kept them strong and able to endure all sorts of hardships and calamities.
 
Tyrant leaders of the last three decades of the last century squashed reform to improve the plight of the people. The island nation gets whipped by horrendous typhoons on a regular basis. Corruption puts the cramp on business growth. The relentless economic hardship has beat many down; but the Pinoy still have their will.
 
When I return stateside, I will listen to the common complaints of American workers. Monday is the start of a horrible week at work. Or the Starbucks ran out of their favorite grind. I can no longer sympathize after watching the procession of the Black Nazarene and the ever-hopeful who acknowledge him. I have great comfort in realising that my fellow Pinoy have high hopes. Like a job. Or a good cup of coffee.
 
Author Note:
The Black Nazarene was carved in Mexico back when the oceans were the Spanish Main. The United States held the archipelago nation as a protectorate for awhile. Seems the Philippines and North America are linked in history – perhaps in spirit and in faith as well.
 
 
 
 

​

---